Anyone lucky enough to visit the beautiful country of Denmark can clearly see why it continually ranks as one of the world’s happiest countries in international surveys. There are many potential reasons as to why this is the case, from the lack of crime and corruption to favorable education and healthcare systems.
Yet while spending time in this beautiful northern European land, you’ll also discover enticing draws like frequent access to water, sleek interior design, abundant hygge (the feeling of coziness and contentment, found when enjoying life’s best things with good people), omnipresent bike lanes, delectably fresh meals from the sea and a kind people whose English-speaking skills never cease to amaze. The country’s sustainability vision also seems to be ahead of the curve, and we’re grateful for all of their inspiring efforts. In 2020, Bornholm and Samsø were declared the most sustainable islands in the EU.
Copenhagen is one of the world’s best cities to visit (in our humble opinion), and while there we can recommend checking into lovely accommodations at Hotel SP34 or Hotel Kong Arthur, and savoring delicious fare at Selma, Høst (the Danish word for “harvest”), or Kadeau Copenhagen, which offers a multi-course culinary experience you won’t soon forget.
On a recent trip, however, we broadened our horizons by adding a few new destinations to the itinerary — those that typically get a bit less airtime with visitors from abroad. This included Aarhus, Denmark’s second-largest city. It has a nickname of “The City of Smiles,” and a population of some 300,000 inhabitants. The inviting town, located on the eastern shore of Jutland, features both an urban vibrancy and a quiet tranquility found in its many parks and along stretches of rocky beach.
Getting between Copenhagen and Aarhus is a breeze, whether you decide upon a three-hour car ride or a three-hour train journey. If you’re traveling from the CPH airport to Aarhus via train (the station can be conveniently found inside the CPH airport), consider pausing along the way for a night or two in charming Odense, home to Hans Christian Andersen of “The Little Mermaid” and “The Ugly Duckling” fairy tale fame.
In Odense, you can visit a new hi-tech museum created in the prolific writer’s honor and visit his childhood home, while also exploring quaint, winding streets and vibrant weekend markets. Enjoy a meal at Michelin-starred ARO before stopping into happening spots like Recordpusher. (Stay at the Comwell H.C. Andersen Odense Dolce by Wyndham for an incredibly convenient and central home base.)
Then hop on the 1.5-hour train (first-class cars come with coffee and cookies) from Odense to Aarhus, where the Comwell hotel there makes for another ideal HQ with sensational city and water views from its upper floors. To stay next to the Cathedral, try the grand Hotel Royal. Begin your explorations at Aarhus’s Dokk1 alongside the harbor — a soaring public hub and library in which to grab a pre-adventure coffee or pastry and gather maps and info to help plan your stay.
Aarhus’s cultural offerings are vast, from the thought-provoking Gender Museum to ARoS, a soaring, 10-story venue with a stylish, plant-filled cafe and, at the very top, the “Your rainbow panorama” walkway. This unique addition proves prime for absorbing elevated city views and finding hyper-color photo ops. (Green living is a large focus here too; in 2022, Aarhus ranked ninth on the GDS-Index, which is a global sustainability benchmarking and improvement program for destinations around the world.)
Also downtown, Den Gamle By is a living museum that allows visitors to wander through decades (and centuries) past of city streets, plus simulated apartments and shops. And located in a suburb just beyond city limits, Mosegaard Museum proves an exquisite venue inside and out. At this captivating site, dedicated to archaeology and ethnography, be sure to grab a bite (like an open-faced seafood-centric lunch) on the museum’s grassy roof terrace.
Standout dining in Aarhus can be found at French-inspired Atelier 33 and two-Michelin-star Frederikshøj, a complete sensory experience set in the former staff lodge of the Royal Palace. Also try plant-centric Tipsy and Mefisto, a cozy outpost in the lively Latin Quarter. Nearby, White Elephant offers solid Thai dishes, and Latino Bar across the street emits festive vibes for those craving a nightcap. If you find yourself wandering this neighborhood during the day, snag a table at sleek La Cabra among tables of folks diligently working away on knitting projects, chatting with friends, and tucking into foamy lattes and some of the best bread around.
Along Jægergårdsgade, a quiet street where inviting cafe and wine bar patios lure you into their warm embrace, Forlæns & Baglæns serves tasty tapas, and SMAGFØRST is a stocked wine bar ready to welcome you in for a warming glass. At lunchtime, Cafe Fika serves up the rainbow with fresh and vibrant salads, sandwiches, and bowls.
Exploring Street Food’s many global vendors and festive atmosphere is a “must” for any first-time visitor to Aarhus as well. For a daytime coffee or cocktail with a view, head to the tip-top of Salling. In Denmark, even department store rooftops manage to dazzle.
In Aarhus, water lovers will delight in strolls along Moesgård Beach, down to The Infinite Bridge. Here, every summer locals and tourists alike soak in 360-degree views found at this circular masterpiece created by architect Niels Povlsgaard and Johan Gjødes. Across the road, kids love distributing carrots to the wild residents of a 54-acre deer park before wandering the peaceful, forested site. At the Marselisborg Harbor, gawk at all the buzzing marina activity from a sit-down restaurant serving up local seafood delicacies, or on the more casual, sandy patio of Surf Cafe, where you can enjoy smoothies, fries, paninis, and cocktails.
For a true treat, view the city from a new vantage point aboard a guided cruise or a self-drive GoBoat (found in Copenhagen and Odense, too). This fun experience proved a highlight of our stay, as we navigated our way around the Port of Aarhus. Guests can pack a picnic to enjoy onboard or pick up drinks and snacks from the GoBoat check-in kiosk, where an affable staff member showed us the ropes before sending us on our merry way. (In warmer months, passengers can choose a longer rental option that allows you to drop anchor for some sunbathing and swimming along the way.)
Another Danish draw, especially for any LEGO loyalist, is Billund, located only about an hour away from Aarhus. In this small town, home to the beloved brand’s HQ, you’ll find a lowkey version of Legoland, complete with nearby family-friendly LEGO-themed hotels and the highly impressive LEGO House — a colorful, interactive celebration of history and passion that shares why: ”The LEGO story is one of the world’s great love stories.” (Fun fact: LEGO derived from the Danish words “LEg GOdt” meaning “play well.”) Billund visitors can also enjoy a handful of shops and eateries, like a bakery that was abuzz with tourists, locals, and hungry cyclists on the day we stopped in, too.
While there’s still much of this lovely land yet to explore, we hope these ideas will get you started. Tak, Denmark; we’ll certainly be back again soon.