In northeast Spain, there’s a region where mountainous towns and modern cities — like the capital of Zaragoza — are nestled among ornate churches, tranquilo monasteries and medieval villages. In Aragón, you can easily feel transported to another era in a beautiful region that flies somewhat under the radar for many American travelers. Whether you partake in activities along the Ebro River, find blissful quiet at sites like that of Monasterio de Piedra, or sip delicious varietals along the winding Campo de Cariñena Wine Route, there are options for everyone.
Aragón’s not known only for its rich history and exquisite Mudejar architecture, which blends Islamic and Christian influences, but also for its production of Serrano ham and black truffles (with Teruel producing more than anywhere in the world). For the oenophiles, the region also boasts a claim to fame as the “world capital of Garnacha.” In the province of Zaragoza, you’ll find three Designations of Origin (or appellations): Campo de Borja, Cariñena, and Calatayud.
Rich History Mixed with Modern Delights
Getting to Zaragoza, a welcoming destination connected to renowned Spanish painter Francisco Goya (who spent his formative years here), proves quite easy from Madrid. You can rely on a prearranged driver, rent a car, or get yourself to an affordable high-speed train that transports you to the city in about 75 minutes.
As Spain’s fifth most populated city, Zaragoza is conveniently located in the middle of several better-known destinations (Madrid, Barcelona, Valencia, and Bilbao), and the drive to the French border is only three hours away. The city emits a relaxed vibe along its tree-lined streets and in city parks occupied by families and dogwalkers with furry friends. Yet on a weekend night in the El Tubo zone, you’ll feel the energy of vibrant tapas bars, as friends shuffle from venue to venue, standing alongside locals who eat and drink the night away. As one Zaragoza native passionately says, “Tapas, it’s the secret of a social life.”
While wandering the city, you may simply stumble upon ancient Roman ruins tucked between modern-day finds. Old and new also merge in local shops and along the enticing chocolate trail. Purchasing a Chocopass voucher, for example, will allow for several stops around town. Savor decadent samples at one of the city’s oldest stores, La Flor de Almibar, as well as more modern artisans like Capricho Taller de Chocolate.
Sightseeing in “the city of the two cathedrals” will take you to grand sites like the Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of Pillar and the Cathedral of the Savior, better known as La Seo, and those preferring to get more immersed in the local scene have plenty of options, too. Peruse stylish boutiques along quaint streets like Calle Méndez Núñez, and shop for artisan shoes at TRÁPALA, a trendy-chic space where “art, sneakers, and boots coexist in perfect harmony.”
Also consider booking an enjoyable afternoon spent in the sleek and tranquil space of La Zarola. The interactive cooking class paired Garnacha wines with memorable courses, with much of the prep work having been completed by the amiable chef-instructor before arrival. Highlights included the Duroc pork cheeks in (Garnacha) red wine with potatoes and apples, paired with Borsao Tres Picos red Garnacha. Then there is the scene-stealing ajo blanco (a k a cold almond soup), topped with sardines and red wine gelatin, and paired with a delightful rosé, the Baltasar Gracian Rosado. The staff shared that the first Garnacha in the world appeared in this region, thanks to terroir that features hot days and cool nights.
Navigating Zaragoza Logistics
The Hotel Palafox proves an elegant and comfortable home base, with a central location conveniently near city sites, restaurants, shops, and the bustling tapas corridor, too. Accommodation highlights here range from a rooftop pool to a decadent breakfast spread, stocked daily with lox, fruit, muesli, freshly-baked bread, cheeses and, of course, the coveted local ham. Five-star Hotel Reina Petronila, designed by Rafael Moneo, is another lovely place to call “home,” especially thanks to its eleventh-floor spa and pool with hot tub.
Within walking distance to Hotel Palafox, trendy eatery La Clandestina has been around for a decade, and every dish comes out beautifully curated and featuring seasonal delicacies from fresh seafood to leeks (with local honey-mustard) and artichokes (served with béchamel and black truffles, the last of the season). Other highlights include foie gras with trout roe, artfully delivered between seaweed crystals, Ternasco de Aragón (lamb meatballs), and eggs perfectly cooked at 63 degrees Celsius (145.4 Fahrenheit) for 45 minutes. A beautiful meal here among kind staff ends with vermut rojo, or Spanish red vermouth — before romantically narrow streets help lead the way home. While still in Zaragoza, perhaps you’ll choose to also relish a scrumptious night on the town at Michelin-star restaurants like Restaurante Cancook, Gente Rara, and La Prensa.
And for a completely different dining experience, consider traveling to other regional towns like Teruel. (It’s no surprise that Garnacha is on offer just about everywhere you go.) Architectural, cultural, and culinary offerings prove fascinating throughout the entire Aragón region, in places where Christian, Jewish, and Muslim communities coexisted throughout the centuries and have left a unique mark.
About two hours southwest of Zaragoza, located in the heart of the Sierra de Albarracín mountains, you’ll find Michelin-starred el Batan. (While accommodations on this property are a bit more rustic, the dinner presentation and culinary fanfare are a worthwhile sight to behold.) Inside the wooded, non-pretentious venue in Tramacastilla, extensive explanations and theatrical flair by the staff enhance each dish that showcases regional truffles, trout, and other ingredients sourced from local gardens and meadows.
You will no doubt leave this region enchanted — and satiated, happy to have discovered yet more of Spain’s beautiful and flavorful offerings.