There is a particular magic that happens when memory meets mastery—when a dish becomes more than flavor and form, but a story that speaks to the soul. For Chef Nacho Manzano, the newly appointed culinary director of Tivoli Kopke Porto Gaia in Portugal’s Douro Valley, every plate is a deeply personal narrative that stretches from the hills of Asturias to the riverside terraces of Porto.
Best known for transforming his family’s rustic restaurant, Casa Marcial, into one of Spain’s most acclaimed fine-dining destinations, Manzano arrives in Portugal with three Michelin stars and a culinary philosophy shaped not by excess, but by emotion. His new role overseeing both 1638 Restaurant & Wine Bar and Boa Vista Terrace is not just a career move, but the beginning of a cross-cultural conversation told through food.
His story begins in La Salgar, a quiet village in northern Spain, where the kitchen was less a professional space and more a sanctuary of memory, tradition, and necessity. “In my early years, I cooked with a certain sense of insecurity,” he says. “We had very few references, so what emerged was a cuisine incredibly personal—rooted in memory and a specific way of doing things.” This realization – that his strength lay in this radical closeness to home and heritage – became the foundation of his culinary voice.
While some chefs chase innovation for its own sake, Manzano sees technique as a tool, not a goal. To him, even the humblest stew carries technical precision, and novelty only becomes meaningful when layered with memory. “Everything is about technique,” he says, “but emotion—that’s what stays with you. That’s what elevates a dish into something unforgettable.”
Now, in Porto, he finds himself drawn to another coastal region where tradition runs deep and the food tells stories of the sea and soil. For Manzano, northern Portugal and the Atlantic Arc share an unspoken kinship. “There’s a beautiful connection between Galicia, Asturias, and Portugal,” he says. “Culturally and gastronomically, we’re neighbors in spirit.” That connection is the heartbeat of the menu at 1638, where Iberian memories converge on every plate.
One such dish—a corn juice-based soup with beans, potatoes, chorizo essence, and crisp lettuce stems—embodies northern Portugal and the flavors and techniques of Spain. “It’s a nod to spoon dishes enjoyed in both Portugal and Asturias,” he says. “A tradition reimagined through the lens of fine dining, but still familiar at its core.” To preserve the clarity of ingredients, Manzano leans on low-temperature cooking and steaming, techniques that minimize alteration and highlight the essence of what’s on the plate.
Yet his culinary ambitions at Tivoli Kopke aren’t confined to elevated dining. With Boa Vista Terrace, Manzano explores casual cuisine with the same reverence. “I love casual restaurants when things are done well,” he says. “The goal is the same: to evoke memory and deliver quality. The difference is in the format, not the philosophy.” Drawing from the traditional recipe book, the menu is anything but generic—offering dishes that may have once appeared at Casa Marcial, now adapted for a more laidback setting.
This commitment to purpose extends beyond flavor. In Asturias, Manzano’s restaurants have been awarded a Green Michelin Star for their sustainable practices—a recognition he wears with quiet pride. “Sustainability is about consistency and respect,” he says. “It’s using every part of the ingredient, avoiding waste, and applying common sense. It’s the way we naturally cook.” That same mindset will guide his work in Portugal, where local sourcing and zero-waste thinking will form the backbone of the culinary program.
Though his name now carries international acclaim, Manzano isn’t chasing expansion. “We chose Porto because I love the city,” he says. “The project excited me. The proximity to Asturias allows us to be fully present and build something meaningful. For now, this is our focus.” It’s a decision rooted in integrity, and one that mirrors his belief in lasting, thoughtful creation.
Asked who he would most like to cook for, his answer isn’t a celebrity or a critic—it’s a grandmother from Gaia’s fishermen’s district. “Someone who cooked from necessity, out of love, with no fanfare. I’d love to sit her down in our fine-dining restaurant and see if we could move her. That would be the real test.” It’s a beautiful vision—an elder’s memory meeting Manzano’s evolution, across generations and garnishes.
Ultimately, his hope for Tivoli Kopke Porto Gaia is as personal as his food. He wants guests to feel something. “A clear culinary point of view. A connection between what we do in Asturias and the soul of Portugal. Respect for produce, dishes that linger in your memory. I want people to leave with a desire to return.” Because in the end, for Manzano, the true measure of success isn’t stars or trends—it’s whether the story on the plate stays with you.
For more information, visit www.tivolihotels.com.